From the main highway up to my little ole town of Huantar
there is a 200 meter gain in altitude.
In some ways, like at sea level, this is nothing, but in other ways,
ways like lung capacity, this little ole altitude gain is a force needed to be
reckoned with—and after about a month in site I decided that by golly, I was
going to reckon.
Walking down the hill is about 40 minutes of relative
ease. Yes, your knees occasionally ask
if so much continuous down is truly necessary, but down in the key word
there. Gravity is working in your favor,
and every step downward brings the slightest increase in oxygen
saturation. As it turns out, walking up
does the exact opposite. Your knees are
fine, but your thighs are cursing you to kingdom come and your lungs are so
busy sucking up the available oxygen to deliver to your cursing thighs that they
can’t be bothered to respond.
As a coping mechanism, I divided and named the various
segments of my walk as a way to measure my distance.
Part 1: The road
The road is
easy. It’s incline is reduced so that
thirty-year-old cars with treadles tires can drive up without stalling. You walk along thinking, this ain’t so
bad. You’re right. It’s not…yet.
Part 2: The swamp
You leave
the road briefly to cut the distance off of a switchback. You delicately hop, skip, and leap across the
less-swampy bits to reach the lightly marked goat trail. You start to go up and it hits you, you’re
climbing up. But this portion is relatively short and
before you know it you’re back on the road—but just to cross it so that you can
come to
Part 3: Mordor
Black
stones and rocks mark this barren landscape.
There are few clumps of grass to reduce the chance of your boot slipping
and yet you know there is nowhere to go but up.
The ring must be destroyed after all.
Part 4: The part you always forget
Mordor
thankfully is short (don’t Frodo and Sam wish they could have said that [last
LOTR reference I promise, maybe]) and soon you’re back to the road only to
remember that damn, you forgot about this part. It has the subsections of
“False sense of security flat part” and “I think the road is just around this corner,
oh wait no its not.” Once you get
through this bit you reach the road for the last time until Huantar
proper. You pause here. Casually you glance downward, not looking to
see if a car is coming up, of course not, you don’t actually want a ride, this
is good exercise, this is character-building, this is FUN, but just to stretch
your back. In the back of your mind
though you know. This is your last
chance. You take one more step and
there’s only one way up to Huantar—on your own two feet.
Part 5: The long part
This part
is long (shocking). The first bit is
steep and you pass such memorable points as “that place I saw a dead, bloated
donkey,” “that place I got stabbed in the armpit with a thistle,” and “that
part where I regret my decision to walk up.”
Before long though you reach The Straight and Narrow. It
is a long portion that is straight and narrow (I know that my naming abilities are
simply astounding you all). It’s kind of
awful though because there are no curves in the path so that you can wistfully imagine
it will be easier just around the corner.
After the
straight and narrow, you come to The Slides.
Steep and rocky, you will inevitably slide down them a little bit. And in one of the great mysteries of the
world, there is always one more segment than you remember.
Finally you
come the top of the portion of The Slides, and it blissfully, mercifully “flat”
(in comparison). Even better, the wall
of the cemetery is within site. Home is
so close you can almost taste it.
You pass
the field that reminds you of a painting of Russian peasants working a field,
you walk briefly under the shade of tall eucalyptus trees, you pick up a stone
to deter a barking dog, you push yourself, huffing and puffing, up the final
steps up the last hill, you ignore the women pointing at you and your red,
sweating, stinking body, and at long last are walking the paved streets of Huantar.
I was too busy trying to breathe properly to take pictures
of this particular hike, but enjoy some shots from other, less arduous climbs
Besos!
On Christmas Day I hiked out to a tree that dominates the skyline and taunted me for weeks. Finally I walked out to it and here she is!
Going where no gringa has gone before
Looking out over Huantar
Some of the desert foliage of my region
More desert foliage
Looking out over Huantar
My new tree hiking goal
Love you blog, Kassel! Please, keep it up, you are a very good writer! Besos grandes desde Lima, Sonia
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