Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Arroz Con Pollo, Dead Cats, Repaired Shoes, Tomates (Que Rico), and Host Families, OH MY!

I was going to start this post with a beautiful photograph.
You see, I was walking home from my second day of training in Chaclacayo.  The training center and my host family's home is in the Andes, about an hour east of Lima.  Clouds, smoke, and smog combine every day to cover the mountains.  On a good day, its as if they are enveloped and the whole vista seems more magnificent; on a bad day they look as though asthma is imminent.  But today, at 5:30, they were perfect.  As I rounded the corner to my house, I saw the sun setting gently setting behind a cloud.  It was an orange orb, shrouded by the smoky air enough so that you could stare at it without burning your eyes.  To the left the mountainside came into focus, to the right the world seemed to fade off into nothing.  I said hello to my host father and brother and rushed to my room to turn on my inactivated cell phone.  Slowly, slowly it turned on.  I opened the camera app and as I flew through the door, the sun was gone.  I stood on the street, my smartphone uselessly in my hand as I stared at a smokey sky, even the mountain almost lost from view.

I wanted to share a picture, but my words will have to do.

That said, Peru has been awesome!  It's so weird to be experiencing a country at such a slow pace.  I've been here for five days already--with no jet lag at that!  Under any other circumstances I would be booking it to the major sites.  Hell, Machu Picchu would be summited, appreciated, photographed, and abandoned.  I would have eaten my weight in classic Peruvian dishes five times over.  The hotels and hostels would already be blurring together, and the sleep deprivation would be intense.  Instead, I've just been hanging out.  I know a little bit about my neighborhood and not much more.  I arrived in Lima around midnight and can tell you that after midnight, I am sleepy and unable to admire the view. During the day I'm busy at the training center--doing language and culture training and participating in what already seem like never-ending job trainings.  I just want t

Fun interlude: My host dad just showed me how to properly flush the toilet.  Apparently, when I flush it tends to keep running water.  Don't worry, I have now practiced and we should be in the clear. Phew!

Where was I? I just want to learn how to do everything!  There's bureaucratic red tape and lots of talk about program guidelines, and I know, I KNOW, that actually this is all sinking in and that it will help in the long run.  But right now, I want more latrine-building exercises and less talking about the mission of the Peace Corps.  (And just watch, one year from now I'm going to be posting about how the day I never dig another latrine or use another latrine will be one day too many).

So.  In order to live up to my title, let me say briefly

Arroz Con Pollo; Arroz Y Pollo; Arroz, Lentales, Y Pollo; Pollo Con Arroz.  Basically at all meals that are not breakfast, there is arroz and there is pollo.  That said, my host dad (who is cooking because my host mom is currently in Chile) has had like seven volunteers before and has been pretty reasonable with the portion sizes.  He even, to the jealousy of all other volunteers, made me a salad with lettuce, tomato, and avocado and a fruit salad with strawberries, papaya, and bananas.  Not to brag or anything, but I must have intestines of steel because I feel fine. Holla!

Definitely saw a dead cat in an empty lot on the walk home.  At first I was like, aw kitty, it's lying on its back with its paws in the air cause its playing.  Then I was like, aw poor kitty, it's stuck.  And then I was like, Nope, that's definitely rigor mortis.

So my beloved though pain the ass breaking Birkenstock sandals decided to wear out in the heel.  It may have something to do with the way I drag my feet when I walk.  Jury's still out.  Anyway, I put my thinking cap on and using the awesome Freesole glue I bought, I totally repaired the shit out of them.  I now continue to proudly wear my Birks knowing that the cork will last that much longer.

The tomatoes here are a thousand times better than in the states.  Like, we went to a fast food restaurant  for lunch (when Mom's away, the kids will play) and in the classic iceberg lettuce there were what I can only assume were heirloom tomatoes.  Did you know that tomatoes can be red the whole way through? Fire-hydrant, taste-explosion red.  I may never come back just because of the tomatoes.

You're going to be hearing a lot about my host family (at least I hope so, I'm already kind of fond of them), so I will just say that I am living it large. We have a car, indoor flush toilet, three adorable dogs, electricity, TV with cable, my own room, and oh yeah, WIFI. I'm trying not to live it up on the interwebs but I am in pretty easy contact for the next ten weeks or so.  I can hear everyone all being incredulous as to my situation, which let me say 1) a lot people train in the US, where it is pretty sweet to be I hear and 2) I hear it gets harder once you're in site. I'm going to live it up while I can.  Plus its still cold showers, so I'm toughening up one step at a time.

And on a final note, I got my language level today! I am intermedio medio--aka the level needed to be able to go out into the field as a volunteer.  While I find that super cool, I also cock my head a little at the Peace Corps expectations, because really?  I do not think I could converse well enough to convince a community to change their behaviors.  So if you are wondering, "Is my Spanish good enough for the Peace Corps?" chat me up, I'll let you know (Spoiler: the answer is yes).

Besos, y lots of love.

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